The high fashion industry has always been synonymous with the thinness, but in the short year, in the 2010s, the movement for the positivity of the body was at the forefront.
He promised a revolution of accepting the body of all shapes and sizes, welcomed the curves and advocated for inclusion, especially on the runway.
But 10 years later, the industry insiders say things moved. Was physical positivity a trend of flash? And with the help of weight loss medication such as Oskempic, is he lean back forever?
We talk to designers, casting agents and models at Paris Fashion Week to investigate what is happening.
2010 -ih: Age of Positive Body Position
AND movement of physical positivity She finds her origin in the foggy days of the 1960s, and her icons like Marilyn Monroe, which spread the rigid Hollywood beauty standard.
He was again brought to the fore in 2010, when Instagram was launched and influences began to emphasize fashion and beauty outside the great magazines and runways.
Helping this was the famous Kardashian family, whose curves were launched by BBL (Brazilian ass erection of asses) around the world.
Enrika, a 28-year-old plus size model, said, “When a movement for body positivity appeared, he felt incredibly empowered and releasing.”
“It felt like the act of rebellion – what has always criticized is now appreciated. It was as if we were finally sufficiently judged.”
Plus-size models were booked for large brands, including Rihanna’s highly desired underwear mark, ‘Savage X Fenty’ launched in 2018.
Mark, estimated at $ 1 billion, became known for her extravagans of the runway, reminiscent of the modern alternative to the iconic shows of Victoria’s Secret, but this time with each body type on the screen.
Felicity Hayward, a 36-year-old plus size model, is considering scouting in 2011.
“When I received that call from my first modeling agency, Storm – which revealed Kate Moss – I thought I was punk’d,” she said.
“Before the 2010s, the attitudes around major bodies were not positive and I never thought the plus model was a possibility.
“Seeing this narrative changed in the last decade and a half, life has changed both emotionally, physically and financially.”
2020 -ih: era Oskempic
But then around 2020, progress began to slow down. And come autumn and winter 2024, from 8,800 looks on 230 emissions, only 0.8 percent on the plus size models, Vogue reports.
At the same time, a new remedy for weight loss used to treat diabetes has come to the market and jumping abruptly to popularity. Semaglutide, also known as the ground and wegovy, restrains the user’s appetite and was approved by NHS For weight loss 2023.
Celebrities, including Elon musk He began to attribute the drug for his new slender frame and it was only a matter of time when it collapsed on consumers.
Since Orempic and his colleagues become more commercial for aesthetic purposes, insiders in the industry claim to have influenced the movement of the positive bodies of the body.
Model, Moya, said: “We saw that the narrative quickly moved, and celebrities and influencers using surgery or medicines like Orempic to persecute what is considered” in fashion “.
Another model, Jenny, said: “When I realized that Skinny was back, he was positive because I would get more jobs.
“But I realized that it means that I have to keep up now. Now I have to be SkinniEst. “
Even the editorial director of the British Vogue said it was The fashion industry “should be worried” Recent trend back to the use of more lean models
Chioma nnadi said the BBC Radio 4’s Today: “I think maybe Oskempic has something to do with it.”
“We are at the moment where we see how the pendulum is swinging at the lean creature” in “, and often these things are treated as a trend and we don’t want them to be.”
Then the Berlin brand, a lamb, became viral for the “I love Orempic” on their runway 2024 Fashion Week.
“Tee” I love the ground “really hit the nerves,” laughed at Nan Li, a creative stamp director who claims the T -shirt was satire.
“With an increase in Oskempic, so many people have been using it. In the last few years, celebrities have just lost weight and have not talked about it.”
Paris ‘celebrates the elitism’
Fast forward by January, when the male AW25 Fashion Week land in Paris and the audience gets a lakmus test in real time exactly where the brands stand.
In addition to the election of designers, including Rick Owens, LGN and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, I can count on two hands of how many models plus the size I saw in the show Week.
Did she say, “Paris is celebrating elitism, and elitism means lean and white.”
“There are several models of size plus [at the shows] But they are not really a plus – they are normal. They throw themselves in every show to make the brands look a positive body. “
In the midst of the crowds and bustle of fashion week, Shaun Beyen, the Casting director for the iconic French brand Fursac, told the BBC: “The only motivation for Mark is the sale of clothing – that’s it. I don’t think we need to lie about this.
“The brands accepted the positivity of the body in 2010 because they considered it a commercial occasion, and when they saw that they no longer appeared as they would hope in 2020, they jumped.”
Beyen added, “Full transparency – I don’t really want to see clothes on someone like me. I want to see her on someone I strive for to look.”
Gauthier Borsarello, a creative director of a veneer, laughed in agreement and said, “I hate my body. I don’t want to see clothes on people like me.”
On the other hand, designers like Charles Jeffrey believe that brands have a moral imperative to get involved. “Body positivity has never been a trend for me,” he said. “It was an opportunity to start being responsible.”
The positivity of the body is knitted in the Charles brand’s fabric itself, which takes inspiration with Queer nightlife. This is easy obviously during his show Paris Week.
The designer explained: “People in my exhibitions are the people I deal with. It’s never about models, these were my friends and their different body shapes. It was a community I surrounded myself with.”
Body positivity ‘has now occupied the back seat’
It seems that the reality that designers like Charles are an exception to the rules. As much as activists resist, industry insiders confirm that the positivity of the body is behind us.
Daniel Mitchell-Jones, co-founder of model agency management, said, “Yes, things moved. 2020 and 2021 we saw so much more variety and involvement on the runway-but body, which now needs the back of the seat. “
Daniel said that when he sent his models of the curve to casting, they are always pushing, but it is often told that the brand is not interested this season.
The Plus-Size Enrika told BBC that not only are models plus smaller reserved, their agents are actively struggling to provide a job for them.
She explained, “It’s not unusual to see four -model campaigns and just one plus size model. That’s why you feel like you’re just a token.”
Enrrika said that these brands sometimes often use tactics in campaigns to turn on the virtue sign-even to highlight the stretch marks on the plus size models, while air in others.
She said, “Sends a message that” we don’t really think you look as good as lean models in our skirt. But we accept you because we are such a kind good people, so give you your hard -earned money, “is a nasty job and I don’t support it.”
If you want to change, change your purchase habits. At least, that’s what Shaun Beyen believes, “It’s all guided by consumers.”
“It’s such a vicious circle. Every fashion house gives its version of what he knows that the buyer wants, it is their interpretation and that is on the consumer.”
Gauthier Borsarello said: “There is a famous French saying:” If people stop producing, people will stop buying. “But the other way around. If people stop buying, we stop producing.
“No one forces you to anything. It’s a customer education: in a decent way – educate yourself.”
And one advantage of the body as a trend is that the corner will eventually go back. Beyen said, “Nothing has never disappeared, especially not in fashion.”
