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French red wine faces “existential” decline if it doesn’t adapt, according to people working in the industry, as younger generations increasingly opt for something different drinks or stay away from alcohol altogether.
Consumption of red wine in France has fallen by about 90 percent since the 1970s, according to the Conseil Interprofessionnel du vin de Bordeaux (CIVB), an industry association.
Total wine consumption, including red, white and rosé wines, has fallen by more than 80 percent in France since 1945, according to Nielsen research data, and the decline is accelerating, with Generation Z buying half the amount of older millennials.
“The problems with wine – especially red wine – are now becoming existential and have been problems for more than a decade,” said Spiros Malandrakis, drinks analyst at Euromonitor International.
The industry suffered from a “lack of connection with younger generations” and had previously fallen into a “sense of complacency” due to the popularity of wine among the baby boomer generation, he added.
The change in French consumption exacerbates global trends that are hurting the sector, such as people drinking less and changing tastes. Especially red wines are falling out of fashion among young people in favor of rosé, beer, spirits and non-alcoholic options.
“With every generation in France we see a change. If the grandfather drank 300 liters of red wine a year, the father drinks 180 liters and the son 30 liters,” said CIVB board member Jean-Pierre Durand.
The industry is also struggling with a sharp drop in demand from China, one of its main export markets, and the impact of climate change.
The challenges did not affect all wine categories equally. “High-volume, highly tannic red wines are in big decline, and this is accelerating with the generational change,” said wine buyer Thomas Castet.
Some industry leaders expect producers to respond by focusing on higher-quality wines or expanding their offerings from reds to other products, such as white or low-alcohol wines — though the latter requires investment in new wines and equipment.
Durand, who also heads winemaker AdVini in southwest Bordeaux, predicts there will be little demand for low-end wines in the future as younger generations prioritize quality over quantity. Some wines in France are sold for as little as 2.50 euros per bottle.
But Durand said overproduction and the presence of many lower-class wines had damaged Bordeaux’s image, even though the region is also known for the Saint-Émilion area, which produces premium and expensive wines.
Business is also challenging for some higher-end wineries. The 2024 harvest at Château Mauvinon, a small family business in Saint-Émilion, was affected by intense heat and mold — problems faced throughout the region as the climate changes.
Brigitte Tribaudeau, who owns and runs the winery, said that high-quality grand cru reds are still the core of Château Mauvinon production, but that years ago she noticed changes in the habits of younger consumers and began to adapt.
It started producing white wine in 2018, as well as orange wine, popular among younger consumers. He is now experimenting with a low-alcohol wine, which will be ready for sale this year.
The winery has also been certified organic since 2017, which attracts younger consumers.
“I felt pretty early on that drinking patterns were changing — seeing that women, and especially younger women around me, were drinking less and a lot less red,” Tribaudeau said.
Some wineries are averse to innovation, either because of cost or due to adherence to tradition. Changing the production of red to white wine requires large investments both in new vines and in different equipment, and not all growing areas are suitable for different types of grapes.
Most winemakers have been resistant to making products like wine mixers and canned wine that could be used to recruit new consumers, Malandrakis said. Many have also been slow to embrace wine tourism and personalized marketing, which may appeal to younger consumers who want an experience and a story with their purchase.
The pressures led the Bordeaux region to begin uprooting up to 9,500 hectares of vines to curb production and prevent the spread of disease through poorly maintained vineyards. The two-year plan, launched in 2023, offers 6,000 euros per hectare for eradication, out of a total budget of 57 million euros financed mainly by the government and the CIVB.
“We can’t continue to make undrinkable wines,” Durand said. “When the model breaks, we adapt.”
